Sunday, April 13, 2008

The Tulips are Coming!



This month's Photowalking Utah event is scheduled for Saturday, April 19th from 5:00 pm to closing at 7:00 pm. We'll enjoy the blooms of spring around the Gardens at Thanksgiving Point catching the evening light. This is right in the middle of the Tulip Festival. Hopefully, they'll be at the height of their glory.

Thanksgiving Point Gardens are located just off I-15 in Lehi. Click here for a map.

As always, this is for photographers of any age and skill level to come and enjoy taking pictures with other like minded people.

There is an admission fee:
Adults: $10.00
Child (Ages 3-12): $6.00
Senior (Ages 65+): $9.00
Tickets are available online.

Afterward, we'll be meeting afterwards for dinner at some place yet to be determined.

For commercial photography, they do have a fee and a form that needs to be signed. No arrangements in this regard have been made.

Thursday, April 3, 2008

PhotoChallenge: Entropy


Entropy 1: Abandoned house
Originally uploaded by hpebley3

When I first heard about the April PhotoChallenge I decided to join in and put it on the calendar. I realized today the beginning of the month had already passed and I was behind before I started. Oh, well such is life.

So today and tomorrow I'm planning on uploading two photos to catch up and then I plan to stay on track.

Monday, March 24, 2008

Photowalk Utah #7: Making Trax


Urban Art at a Trax station
Originally uploaded by hpebley3

This month's Photowalking Utah event is riding the east-west, University Trax line from the Medical Center stop to the Arena stop. We're meeting at the last stop on the east side adjacent to the Moran Eye Center. The Center has graciously given us permission to use their parking. We'll ride westward getting off at each stop, taking photographs and then catching the next train. At each stop, we'll have about 15 minutes to get the shots we want and get back to the station.

This ought to give us opportunities for a large variety of different shots: people, architecture, sculpture, environmental, neon. With the time constraints, we'll have to practice surveying the area, figuring out the shots we want, prioritizing them, taking them and moving on. I think this is going to be a blast.

If you're planning to attend, please leave a brief comment on this flickr thread so we can get a rough idea how many to expect.

Details:

Who: Photographers of all skill and age levels, from brand new shooters to seasoned pros. Our main goal is to get together and have fun.
When: Saturday, March 29th at 4:00 pm. Estimated time is 2 hours.
Where: Meet at the Medical Center Trax stop. Parking is available at the Moran Eye Center located at 65 Medical Dr.
Cost: The "roundtrip" pass is $3.50 and is good for Trax only all day. Passes are purchased with cash (no plastic) at automated ticket kiosks at the station; if you're using bills, make sure they're in good enough condition to be read by the machine. The machine does take largish bills but gives change in $1 coins. So you can give it a $10 (or $20 I think) but expect a pocketful of change when you're done. Other options can be found on the UTA fares page.

Hope to see you there.

Thursday, March 6, 2008

Utah Photo Safari: Hogle Zoo


River otter I
Originally uploaded by hpebley3

The Utah Photo Safari group's next adventure is this Saturday at Hogle Zoo. First, those who are able, are meeting for lunch at Costa Vida Restaurant in Foothill Village for lunch at noon and heading over to the zoo at 1:00 pm. The rest of the group is meeting in the parking lot at the zoo and then heading inside to shoot the animals. With a camera, of course. Look for the tripod on the top of the car.

Anyone interested is invited.

If you're planning on coming to lunch, Please RSVP on this thread so reservations can be made.

Lunch
Costa Vida Restaurant in Foothill Village
1336 S. Foothill Blvd.
Salt Lake City, UT 84108
Saturday, March 8th, 12-1 pm

Hogle Zoo
2600 East Sunnyside Avenue
Salt Lake City, Utah 84108
Saturday, March 8th, 1-4 pm

Admission Prices
Adults: $8.00
Seniors (65 and older): $6.00
Children (3 to 12): $6.00
Children 2 & younger: Free

Saturday, March 1, 2008

Save my son: The miracle of selective image adjustments

One of my regular haunts for photographic hints, tips and information is Digital Photography School (aka DPS). Recently in their forums, one of the members asked for us to Save my son. He had a photo of his son with a common problem: a bright, overexposed background and a dark, underexposed foreground. In this article, I'll show one technique for dealing with this problem. The screen shots and textual descriptions are based on Corel's Paint Shop Pro (referred to later as PSP), but the basic workflow should work with any image editor software that supports multiple layers.

In general, what I'm going to introduce here is the idea of selective adjustments. This is a powerful technique that can be used to produce many effects. (My friend Ann Torrence is a master at using selective adjustments to get very creative images as can be seen here, here , here and here.) In this case we won't get as creative as Ann does, but rather use selective adjustments to get an image where the main subject is better balanced with the background.

First, here's the original image. (Click on any image to see a larger view.)
1 Original

The first thing I do with any image is to make sure the histogram is adjusted correctly.[1] For the most part, I like the histogram to stretch from the left to the right. As can be seen below, this image has a small empty spot on the right side, so I've adjusted the white slider down. When this is applied, the brightness values in the image will be expanded such that what is now between the dark and light sliders will take up the entire histogram instead of part of it. Since only the light slider is moved down, the brightness values for the entire image will be shifted towards the right, making the entire image a bit brighter.
2 Histogram adjustment

Here's what the image looks like after this adjustment.
3 After histogram

There's only a subtle change but it makes the image use the entire dynamic range of the color space rather than just part. This is a better starting point for the rest of the edits.

The next step is to make the foreground lighter. In the case of this image, the goal is to improve the exposure of the boy. For now, I'm going to ignore the background. In the process of making the boy brighter, the background will be blown out even more than it is. I'll deal with improving this in subsequent steps.

To accomplish this lightening, my choice is to use a curve adjustment layer. It could be done with a brightness adjustment layer, but that would adjust everything equally. Using curves provides greater control, allowing some parts of the image to be brightened more than others.

In PSP, this is done by right clicking the layers window and selecting New adjustment layer and then Curves. This pops up a dialog box where the curve can be specified. I set the value like this:
4 Foreground curves

The curve above results in this image:
5 After curve adjustments

We can now see the boy's face and expression. The problem is the background is mostly blown out and is over-powering the boy. While we can see him, the image is still out of balance. This is because the adjustment was on the entire image. What is needed is for the background to be adjusted independently of the boy. This is where the selective adjustment comes in.

If you look at the adjustment layer in the layers window, there is a white block. This is the mask for this layer. Whatever is white has the adjustment applied completely. Whatever is black has no adjustment done. Various levels of grey can be used to partially apply the adjustment if desired.

The masking is done by first making sure the adjustment layer is selected and then using the paintbrush tool to paint in black on the image where the mask should not be applied.[2] I used a fairly large brush with a really soft edge to paint on the background. Then I made the brush smaller to paint around the details. Usually I use a pretty soft brush so there's a gradual transition from where the effect is applied to where it isn't. The harder the brush, the faster the transition. Fast transitions tend to be more obvious to the eye and less natural.

Here's what the mask looked like when I was done:
6 Curve masking

And here's what the image looked like:
7 After curve masking

The boy still has the same exposure as before, but now the background is the same as after the adjusted histogram. This is better than the original, but I think the background is still too intense.

To adjust just the background, right click on the adjustment layer in the layers menu and select Duplicate. This causes the same adjustments to be applied again, making the image way too bright. This is just temporary. Next, making sure the new adjustment layer is selected, on the Selections menu select Select all (or press Ctrl-A). Now on the Image menu select Negative image. This causes everything that was black on our mask to become white and everything that was white to become black. In essence selecting just the background.

Now the curves need to be edited so instead of brightening they darken. This is done by right clicking on the new layer and selecting Properties from the pop-up menu. This will cause the curves dialog we saw earlier be displayed.

Before the image was brightened by adjusting the curve up and to the left. Now it'll be darkened by adjusting the curve down and to the right as shown here.
8 Background curves

As expected the background got darker. Some halos showed up at the transition between the two masks. This was fixed with a bit of touch-up using the paintbrush tool, resulting in this final image:
9 Final

This technique can be used on just about any effect to selectively change parts of an image. If your photo editing tool supports layers but not adjustment layers, the same technique can be used by duplicating the image layer, applying the effect to it and then using the erasure tool to eliminate the areas which should not have the effect.

Here are a couple of my own images that I've recently used similar techniques on to improve them over the originals (click on them for a larger view):
80k volt electron microscopeCoffee shop venueFarmington Bay


1. The histogram is a chart showing the various brightness levels of an image. The horizontal axis along the bottom is read left to right and represents the various brightness values possible. The very left side represents black and the very right side represents white with all the levels of grey in between. Bars exist at each location along the horizontal axis and their height indicates how much of the image is at that brightness level.

2. If the adjustment layer should only be applied to a small area of the image, the bucket tool can be used to paint a black mask and then the paintbrush tool can be used to paint in white only on those parts that should be adjusted.

Friday, February 22, 2008

February Challenge - Blue week


Blue sky
Originally uploaded by hpebley3

This month I'm participating in February Challenge: Color Theory. The idea is to focus on one color each of the five weeks. I chose blue for this week's color.

This image was taken on a relatively clear day between storms. I was in my backyard, letting our hibernating rose garden frame the gate, looking towards the mountains. One of the reasons I took this picture was because the sky was pretty flat. I wanted to show my wife how to use layering with selective effects to take a blah image and make it more presentable. This was the result.

Saturday, February 16, 2008

February Challenge - Green week


Green cup
Originally uploaded by hpebley3

This month I'm participating in February Challenge: Color Theory. The idea is to focus on one color each of the five weeks. I chose green for this week's color.

I received this mug for my birthday from people at my first programming job and it still sees daily use. It enumerates a bunch of "laws" of programming. One of my favorites is Make it possible for programmers to write in English and you'll find out programmers cannot write in English. It's amazing how relevant most of these are over twenty years later.

Hmm. You know you're getting old when you're using a coffee mug older than some of your co-workers.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Backlit self-portrait


20/52 Backlit
Originally uploaded by hpebley3

This self-portrait was inspired by a scene in a movie I saw recently. (I don't remember which one; it was something based on one of Jane Austin's works.) It took a bit more work than I expected; here's what it took.

I knew I only needed one light and a dark background. I had my backdrop setup to use the white side so I set a moderately high aperture of f/13, turned off all the ambient lights and set the chair about 8 feet from the backdrop. This made the white canvas appear black. I already had the monolight setup with a soft-box from some previous work and started by setting it directly in front of me.

A test shot resulted in the whole front of my face being lit. It was a nice effect with some potential but not what I envisioned for this shot. There was too much light and the falloff from light to dark was more gradual than I wanted. The soft-box was doing it's job and giving me a nice soft light. So I took the soft-box off and blinded myself with a bare flash.

The shadows changed from soft to hard, eliminating the gradual drop-off from light to dark. But I still had more light on the front of my face than I wanted. Next I moved the light back next to the backdrop pointing towards the chair.

Test shots with this setup produced a light on me close to what I wanted. But it lit the background enough that it changed from black to grey and introduced lens flair. I grabbed the barn doors and put them on the light. I adjusted the vertical doors to have a very narrow window, lighting only the chair and eliminating the light on the camera and backdrop.

This setup, with a bit of tweaking light power, was what produced the final shot.

Here's a diagram of the final setup (produced using the online tool at http://www.sdgphoto.com/lightingstudio/.
20/52 Backlit setup

Sunday, February 10, 2008

February Challenge - Red week


Open neon
Originally uploaded by hpebley3

This month I'm participating in February Challenge: Color Theory. The idea is to focus on one color each of the five weeks. I chose red for this week's color. It's amazing how many things related to fire are red: signs, extinguishers, alarm pulls, siren boxes, fire lanes. I wonder if this is a cultural association or more universal. This is one of the few things I saw (and shot) this week that was red but not related to fire.

Saturday, February 2, 2008

February Challenge - Yellow week

Yellow flower
This month I'm participating in February Challenge: Color Theory. The idea is to focus on one color each of the five weeks. With only two days, this week is short, but I'm starting off with eight shots of yellow.